All hail Heid’s of Liverpool; at least most of us, anyway

Lunch at Heid’s in Liverpool.

A hot dog is a hot dog is a hot dog, right? Not if you are my father-in-law, or Jim Boeheim, for that matter, both of whom speak very fondly of Heid’s in Liverpool, the classic drive-thru that has been around since 1917 and is known for its Hofmann-brand hot dogs and coneys.

Wife L and I visited the CNY landmark on Saturday for the very first time after we had a brisk walk through the village and along the wonderful walkways of Onondaga Lake Park.

I came away a fan; Wife L was not similarly impressed.

I thoroughly enjoyed my crispy-grilled coney, tucked in a fresh, warm New England-style bun. The special spicy brown mustard that Heid’s sells was the real treat for me; it provided a wonderful kick. The baked beans were the perfect accompaniment, reminding me of many a summer picnic.

Wife L enjoyed her hot dog, but wasn’t buying into the Heid’s hype. She opined that she would have been just as happy grilling some Hofmann’s hot dogs on our backyard grill. But then again, she ordered cheesy fries, so you have to be wary of her opinion. Cheese was not intended for french fries, just as ketchup was not intended for hot dogs or eggs.

You order your food at Heid’s cafeteria style, and walk with your tray past folks waiting to order and into the clean dining room. There also are picnic tables outside waiting for the warm weather.

Several folks had Syracuse University orange on, and I could see quite a few had ordered the special: a frank and a coney, regular fries, and soft drink, for $7.25. You can get Gianelli sausage sandwiches, as well, and what they call a Sea Dog, which is beer-battered cod.

We were very lucky, we beat a big crowd that clogged the eatery’s doorway and snaked outside just as we were getting ready to leave.

We had a nice walk through Liverpool. It was great to see so many parking spaces filled on the village streets, and so many people shopping at Nichols, the independently owned supermarket. We passed some interesting-looking restaurants, including the Limp Lizard Bar and Grill and The Retreat, and out on Old Liverpool Road we passed a couple of diners and several other restaurants that seemed worth a look.

It was great to see a lot of activity on a day that had promised sunshine but delivered mostly overcast skies and a chilly wind and, luckily for me at least, a rewarding visit to a CNY institution.

The impressive Liverpool Community Church.

Sherburne Inn restoration project offers hope amid CNY economic mess

On any given day in CNY there is reason to believe and a reason to despair. A case in point is the formation of a citizens’ preservation group that is fighting to save The Sherburne Inn, the building that dominates the four corners in the Chenango County village of Sherburne.

Apparently a chain operation was ready to demolish the historic structure, which dates back to 1917 and most recently was known at the Bullthistle Inn, and put up a gas station and convenience store. Residents said, whoa. The owner, Jim Webb, gave the preservation group a chance to meet his asking price, which the group did. Closing on the property is expected any day.

Save the Sherburne Inn Restoration Project Inc. (SSIRP) has a vision for the building that includes a restaurant and two bars, overnight accommodations, event space, a gift shop, fitness center, and bakery.

The Sherburne Inn circa 1917.

It’s ambitious, and the business plan is still being finalized. But it’s exactly the kind of determination and effort our region needs to cultivate the past as we look toward the future. These unique buildings won’t ever be built again; they deserve a second and third chance to evoke that invaluable sense of place that makes CNY such an interesting place to live.

I learned of this effort through a postcard I received in the mail the other day. SSIRP has a website, and is seeking financial assistance and volunteers to help with the project. My check is in the mail, and I hope you’ll consider a contribution, too.

Part two of my case in point is a sad reminder of how many CNY residents are forced to move from the area because of the lack of jobs and any hint of economic progress.

I volunteered to be a parade marshal during Utica’s St. Patrick’s Day parade a few weekends ago. My “team captain” Mike has been a volunteer for several years, and is exactly the kind of person we need in this area. Folks who give back, who spend time trying to improve the community. But Mike told me this would be his last year at the parade; he and his wife are leaving to join other CNY expatriates in North Carolina.

The reason? They can’t find meaningful jobs in an area he said was “dying.” He obviously would stay if there was a chance to improve their lives and find new job opportunities. But instead they will join the other upstate New Yorkers forced to move to where the jobs are, forced to leave family and friends, forced to leave communities that need their commitment and volunteer spirit.

The CNY diaspora grows. State government fiddles.

The Evil Empire (a k a Olive Garden) sets sights on Utica area

It appears as if the Evil Empire is expanding in CNY. An Olive Garden restaurant is slated for Commercial Drive in New Hartford, not far from Sangertown Square Mall. It would join a sister operation on Route 5 in DeWitt.

In my introduction to the Unchained Restaurants blog, way back in 2009, I wrote:

We’re focusing on New York, but if you’re road-tripping and want to share some ideas, please go ahead. Just remember, no mentions of Olive Garden or Cracker Barrel.

Well, I’m mentioning Olive Garden now because Mike, who runs the terrific Oliveri’s Pizzeria in Hamilton, talked about it with me the other day while I was there for lunch.

Mike hails from Utica, and is passionate about good — local — food. It’s evident in what he serves at his restaurant, from the pizza and wings to the subs and paninis to the vodka riggies and ravioli. It’s all great.

He supports his fellow local restaurateurs, telling me about places he’ll go — when he has time — to eat and to talk food. Places like Joey’s and Ventura’s, both in Utica. We lamented together the demise of Grimaldi’s and Tony Sparagna’s, the Utica restaurants that had represented local traditions, a homespun take on Italian food that was enjoyed by thousands for decades.

I think about Utica and I think Italian food; recipes brought over from the “old country” and tweaked and stirred so that they still resonate today. I also think about the new ethnic restaurants populating Bleecker Street and other sections of the city. Small restaurants carving out niches of their own.

What will an Olive Garden in the Utica area do to these local restaurants? We ate not too long ago at Michael T’s on Route 5, just down the road from where the Evil Empire is supposed to land. What about Cafe del Buono, right on Commercial Drive? How can those establishments not be hurt by the Italian-food processor?

I hope it won’t have an effect; but the Evil Empire is powerful. And just to be clear, I’m not against good, inexpensive food. I’m not against new tax revenues and new jobs. God knows we need that.

But I am against the numbification of food. The way chains like OG neglect all that is local and impose their corporate tastes in such a uniform way as to erase any hint of distinctiveness or respect for an area’s heritage. There is no connection to place; you can be at an Olive Garden in Ohio or New Jersey (sorry, for you) and you won’t see anything special; unique; diverse.

And that is a shame. And that is my rant.

Pristine cross-country skiing conditions in Adirondacks stoke the appetite

As I drove south on Route 28 through Eagle Bay, I followed the bobbing red tail lights of the snowmobiles that buzzed along the roadway, racing me to the next crossing where they would turn off the road and zoom into the woods. It was bitter cold in the Adirondacks at around 7 p.m. Saturday, so I was glad to be in my warm car instead of on the snowmobile trails.

My winter activity that day involved cross-country skiing around Cascade Lake and, as always, any kind of trip has to include a visit to a locally owned eatery or two.

I had not been in the Adirondacks at the height of snowmobile season before. It was interesting  to see so much activity at the Old Forge hotels, where brightly colored flags marked off areas for the sleds. The arch that marks the spot of the Enchanted Forest amusement park was now a beacon for snowmobiles in search of gas, as temporary tanks were in the parking lot providing fuel 24/7.

In Thendara there were snowmobiles churning along the sidewalks, and hordes of snowmobilers sprang in and out of view along Route 28 as I neared town.

The Hard Times Cafe in Eagle Bay.

I met Friend P, a former colleague at the Times Union newspaper in Albany, at the Hard Times Cafe in Eagle Bay right around lunch time. The restaurant was filled with snowmobile riders pulling out maps in between looks at the menus. Our waitress seemed a bit harried as she worked the dining room alone. We both ordered cheeseburgers and fries, and it took a while for them to land.  My burger was fine, though not particularly noteworthy. There were soups that I wish I had tried instead, and there are a range of sandwiches to choose from.

The Cascade Lake trail head was just a mile away on Big Moose Road. Friend P is editor of the Adirondack Explorer magazine, and he wanted to ski the 6-mile loop for a future article. He also writes about other cross-country ski options on his Outtakes blog.

Skiing on Cascade Lake.

Back-country skiing along the lake’s edge.

Not too much farther to go back to the car!

The conditions were perfect for skiing: blue skies and 20 degrees. We met a couple of fellow skiers, who had nicely broken the trail for us, and two folks on snowshoes. Eventually we went off the trail and dropped onto the lake where the snow was untouched, just slight ripples from the wind and the solitary track of a bobcat.

The sun lit up what looked like small, sparkling sequins on the snow’s surface, providing us a nice show as we sliced and glided our way across the lake.  (You can see the exact track here through Google Maps. )

After a good three hours of skiing, our appetites had returned and we headed about five miles north on Route 28 to Inlet, where we found the Screamen Eagle and Matt’s Draft House. This is a potpourri of a place if there ever was one. You can get pizza, wings, and subs, along with huge chocolate chip and half-moon cookies. You can rent videos if you’d like, including VHS tapes, or you can choose from 50 beers or from an extensive wine list. Your choice.

I opted for a Saranac White IPA, courtesy of the Matt Brewing Co. in Utica, and a Batch 19, which I didn’t’ realize is made by Coors but enjoyed nonetheless. Friend P chose the Ubu Ale, of Lake Placid, which I also sampled and enjoyed.

Snowmobile gear fills a dining area at Screamen Eagle.

The beer options are incredibly good at Matt’s. The restaurant also offers a wide range of specialty pizzas. We had an eight-cut California-style veggie pizza.  It was served on one of those cardboard circles, which was weird, but it was flavorful and fresh. The wings are supposed to be very good here, and the hot subs I spied looked good.

I do ski and don’t snowmobile. I’m hoping we get a couple more good snowfalls to keep us all happy in the different areas of the park that provide such great wintertime options.  It was great to see the bars and restaurants buzzing after last year’s bust of a winter; I know I’m ready for a few more ski excursions.

Ponchito’s Taqueria adds bold dash of flavor to Syracuse neighborhood

What makes a vibrant neighborhood? I believe it is when residents have a commitment to the place they live in; strong ties that bind but also bend when demographics shift and new needs arise. And, I firmly believe, the neighborhood has to serve the people in it with a selection of good restaurants, bars, and shops.

I think Eastwood in Syracuse fits the definition of a strong neighborhood. Friend M lives there, so I know a little about the place through my visits. There is an active neighborhood association that weighs in on development plans and works hard to coax builders to accommodate the streetscape.

There is the rejuvenated Palace Theater, a cultural icon for this village within the city limits. There are bars like Chadwick’s, a must-happen stop during our annual St. Patrick’s Day festivities. There is a skating rink and a nine-hole golf course.

Wife L and I visited Friend M a few weeks back for the YMCA Folksmarch walk that was held in the neighborhood. We all started at the Palace, which opened in 1922 and now serves as a venue for films, musical acts, and all kinds of gatherings.

It was fun to poke my head in the cavernous theater that was showing an old black and white film. There is a cafe adjoining the lobby, and an events room on the second floor. The aroma of freshly popped popcorn filled the lobby and a free sampling fueled our walk through the neighborhood.

Popcorn, though, can only go so far. So after our 5K stroll we gave serious consideration to lunch, and Friend M suggested one of his favorites:  Ponchito’s Taqueria, on New Court Street.

Ponchito’s calls itself a roadside taqueria serving Latin American food. Friend M said there are lines out the door late weekend nights because the restaurant stays open until 3 a.m. I’m not sure how folks find it because it is definitely off the beaten path, but find it they do.

I discovered that it is just down the street from Hammi’s BBQ and Diner, which Unchained Restaurants reader Jennifer had just tipped me off to with a comment here on the blog. Next time we will stop in at Hammi’s, which has a sign that touts its Bacon Bomb. Not sure what that involves, but I know it merits further investigation.

This ground beef burrito at Ponchito’s is $6.

Ponchito’s was just opening its doors when we trooped in. You order food at the counter and grab a bottled drink at the cooler. There are about seven tables and booths available. It’s spartan, and not a place where you would linger, but we were there to eat.

Unless you have been fasting for six weeks, do not order the Super Burrito. I ordered the regular burrito, and it was more than enough for me.  You have a choice of fillings: ground beef, pork seasoned in beer broth, chicken, chili-rubbed steak or veggie. I ordered the ground beef, and watched as my monster burrito was filled with beans, salsa, cheese and a drop or three of hot sauce.

The warm tortilla was the perfect envelope for this heady concoction of flavor, all melding perfectly into a spicy, flavorful dish. Wife L and Friend M had a few tacos each, and the crunch from the corn tortillas was nonstop as they enjoyed each and every bite.

Ponchito’s is technically in the hamlet of Lyncourt, but is just one mile from Eastwood’s main drag, James Street, which is the neighborhood’s heart and soul. It one of several restaurants that add  flavor to the neighborhood, and a worthy stop if you are traveling in the eastern edges of the ‘Cuse.

Ponchito’s Taqueria is in a largely commercial area of New Court Avenue, one mile from James Street.

A local food trifecta: Fresh Stoltzfus dairy products, pusty pastries, and Teddy’s for lunch

I hit the local food trifecta on Saturday. I toured a family dairy in Vernon Center, bought wonderful  Italian bread and a pusty from a bakery in Rome, and topped it off with a terrific lunch at Teddy’s, also in Rome.

This is a pusty. Don’t be alarmed by the nickname, be amazed by the pastry.

A pusty, you ask? Yes.  To be more precise, and perhaps a bit more enticing,  it is actually called a pasticciotti. It is an Italian pastry filled with pudding or custard. It’s a dense dessert that is perfect with a cup of hot tea.  I love the chocolate pudding variety, and the pusty I bought at the B & L Italian Bakery on James Street was a real treat.

I’m not sure why I had never ventured inside B & L before. I used to frequent Aquino’s Restaurant, which was just across the street before moving out to Floyd Avenue,  when I worked at the Daily Sentinel newspaper. The pizza was always delicious and it was fun to watch the numbers  flying as patrons placed bets on everything and anything they could imagine.

B & L has been going for 30 odd years, the woman inside told me.  In addition to the bread there are Italian cookies, rolls, and other pastries. And, of course, the pustys.

Whenever we visit Rome we tend to eat or at least stop at The Franklin Hotel to buy bread and goodies. This  time around we stopped at B & L and later  drove down Black River Boulevard and visited Teddy’s, where  Wife L and I met Niece N for lunch.  It had been a long time since we were in the strip mall where Teddy’s is located.  So long ago that we remembered when there was a thriving Blockbuster video store there, instead of the ugly Dollar General store and a pool store.  (Side note 1: I’m glad I never bought Blockbuster stock. Side note 2: Why does every Dollar General store look like it was yanked from a 1940s-era  Moscow slum?)

Teddy’s has undergone quite the transformation. Wife L remembered when it was a narrow eatery where she would order greens and a grilled cheese sandwich early in the morning after visiting numerous establishments like Casa Bogey’s nightclub and DeMatteo’s bar, down on East Dominick.

Now, it’s a full-size restaurant with booths and tables, a nice bar in the back corner, and warm, rich colors all around.

I had the delicious Italian panini, which consists of salami and capicola topped with Wife L’s favorite greens, roasted red peppers,  and provolone cheese. The sandwich was incredibly flavorful, with the garlic mayo adding a nice finish. I didn’t really care for the sweet potato wedges; the thick cut didn’t do it for me. Niece N enjoyed one of the specials, a hearty chili served with garlic bread. Wife L went the burger route, opting for the bacon cheeseburger and a side of fries. She deemed it worthy of our past favorite burger, the one served up at Abbott’s Village Tavern in Marcellus.  I remain undecided until more evidence is gathered.

Teddy’s is well-known for its chicken riggies, and it also serves a variety of salads, seafood, pasta, and steaks. It will be a hard choice next time we visit Rome.

The processing area for Stoltzfus products. The dairy welcomes visitors and school groups.

The third leg of our local food trifecta was an open house at Stoltzfus family dairy, where we were invited into the dairy’s processing building where cheese, cheese curds, yogurt, and Creamline milk are produced. The pristine machinery served as the backdrop for the Stoltzfus patriarch who discussed his family’s operation. You can buy Stoltafus products at some area stores. They are looking to expand into others, and they sell directly from their self-serve coolers  Monday through Thursday.

I love doing this kind of thing. Wife L thinks it’s weird. But I came away amazed at how hard these folks work and how much they need to know about agriculture, food production,  and marketing.

Our tour guide explained how the milk they use comes from their three family farms within 10 miles of their Skinner Road dairy. The milk comes on Monday, and by Thursday their products are on their own trucks being delivered to stores.  They produce between 6,000 and 8,000 cups of yogurt a week. They don’t homogenize their milk, they only pasteurize it. They believe it’s a better-tasting, more natural, healthier product.

Their fluid milk comes with the cream on top. You  need to skim it off  or give your bottle a good shake to disperse it. I sampled the milk and thought it was creamy and smooth. We bought horseradish cheese curds, a sour cream and onion farmstead cheese, and a couple of yogurts. I loved it all. The cheese was creamy and smooth; it doesn’t have the bite to it like an aged cheddar, but I really enjoyed it. The cheese curds were packed with flavor; and I enjoyed my yogurt that was much smoother and milder than my other favorite, the locally produced Chobani Greek yogurt, produced in New Berlin.

Stoltzfus Family Dairy is on Skinner Road, Vernon Center.

I’m glad I discovered this new option and found another outlet for locally produced goods. It does mean something to me to know exactly where my food is coming from, and I was very glad for the chance to learn about the process  and meet just a few of the people who make it happen, right here in CNY.