Swamp south of Cazenovia goes to the dogs

Finn the Dog and I have been to the Nelson Swamp Unique Area before. But Tucker the New Dog had not been before, so we piled in and drove south from Route 20 on Stone Quarry Road to the state preserve.

It’s a great place for a walk if you’re a human and an even better place for a run if you are a canine. Also, a nice place for a dip in one of the streams if you’re of the four-legged variety.

I’ve written about the hiking area before, so I won’t go into too much detail. But seeing as this was Tucker’s first foray to this wonderful hiking area, I thought I’d share a couple of photos.

Mount Hope Reservoir offers spot to work off unwanted calories

I travel Route 46 fairly often heading north to the city of Oneida. It turns out that less than a mile from the state highway on Mount Hope Avenue is a historic reservoir that is part of the city’s park system.

I know this isn’t specifically food related, but anyone who loves to eat out also needs to get their exercise. This 65-acre park is called Mount Hope Reservoir, and it is open from dawn to dusk. 

The dark green waters are surrounded by a nice walking path that has a bridge that allows for a full loop around the long-disused reservoir.

My friends on Wikipedia say that the reservoir was developed between 1883 and 1906 and served as the original source of water for drinking, fire protection, and industrial needs for Oneida. It was all but abandoned by the city in 1979 and named to the National Register of Historic Places in 1997.

Tuck the dog and I followed the foot path around the reservoir last Saturday. Just a few families were out on the path. I discovered trillium along the banks of the southern shore, and Tuck discovered all kinds of things to keep him very happy.

Here are some photos:

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Thee Diner in Cicero makes the walk, and the drive, worthwhile

Does it make sense to drive 55 miles to walk 3 miles in a snowstorm with temperatures in the teens? A fair question.

The answer turned out to be a resounding yes as I was able to explore Oneida Shores Park and stop in at the Thee Diner in Cicero. Both first-time experiences proved to be fruitful and fun.

I drove to the park on the southwestern tip of Oneida Lake last Saturday and was forced to take the  toll-thirsty Thruway for part of the ride because the side roads were slick and sloppy. The park has a beautiful lodge tucked into the woods, where I got my route map for the 5K folksmarch sponsored by the Syracuse YMCA.

I do have this curious need to be rewarded for my endeavours. I’m sure it’s a lack of emotional depth. No “it’s the journey” for me. When I hike I need a payoff, a vista of unparalleled beauty. Play softball, I want to win. Badly want to win. When I do these folksmarch walks, I want that pin that comes with a successful jaunt.  I blame my parents.

Oneida Shores Park

Oneida Shores proved to be a beautiful setting for my stroll (See more photos here). The trees were covered in what looked like gooey marshmallow, and the lake, or more immediately Muskrat Bay, looked impressive in its gray/white expansiveness. I stayed warm despite the niggly temperatures, decked out in my new Columbia jacket that came courtesy of Mrs. Claus at Christmas. (By the way, if you need a thin, crazy warm jacket or any kind of outdoor gear at steep discounts, check out Sierra Trading Post. Great deals.)

The folksmarch folks do a great job organizing these walks, which can be stretched to the 10K variety if you are so compelled. I had bought my cross country skis with me, and I tried it after my walk. But the snow as actually too deep and there were no skiers out before me cutting the trail, so I hopped in my car after warming up at the Arrowhead Lodge and collecting my nifty pin (at right). 

The road conditions had improved  by that time so I took Route 31  and came across the Thee Diner, which is under a mile from Route 81. I’ll be the first to admit that the diner doesn’t look like much form the outside, but if you are traveling on Route 81 and need a break, this is a great place to refuel.

It is always a good sign for me when a diner offers me options for my cup of tea. I have nothing against Lipton or Red Rose, but when given a chance for an English Breakfast Tea by Bigelow or Twinings, I’m all over it. That was one of several options offered to me by the waitress who greeted me at one of about eight tables in the main section of the diner, which has additional tables in an expanded dining area with large windows letting in the meager doses of sunlight.

Thee Diner in Cicero

I also was reminded right away about why locally owned restaurants are so much better than chain eateries. Instead of hokey pieces of kitsch on the walls that some corporate suit approved after myriad consultations with overpaid designers,  there was photo after photo  of patrons lining the walls. Real people from the community. That alone speaks volumes.

My breakfast of eggs, home fries, sausage, and toast was right on the mark. I was intrigued by the sign that promised homemade desserts by Cindy, but I didn’t walk that much at the park. Thee Diner also serves ice cream during the warmer months.

After my leisurely breakfast I didn’t mind one bit that I had about 50 miles left to drive. Seemed like nothing at all.

Additional photos from this trip:

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Picture this: Bread as art in Utica

Bread nourishes the body and art nourishes the soul.

Walking, I’ve discovered lately, can do both.

I took a ride to Utica the other day and my first stop was Napoli’s bakery and deli, at the corner of Bleecker and Culver. Their Italian bread is some of the finest you can find in CNY. I can’t, and don’t, eat enough of the textured bread with the crunchy, chewy crust. It is unbelievably good.

I also ordered a large tomato pie. Napoli’s offers some of the finest around, with a tangy sauce topped with just a sprinkle of Parmesan.  Combined with a wonderful pizza crust, I’m working my way through through several square slices before taking a breath.

It’s good stuff all around.

Photograph © 2006 Ansel Adams Publishing Rights Trust Courtesy Center for Creative Photography, University of Arizona

After that critical purchase I visited the Munson Williams Proctor Arts Institute on Genesee Street to take in the Ansel Adams photography exhibition.  It is an amazing display of 48 photos Adams had chosen himself late in his life to best represent his work.

Where do you go for that perfect CNY fish fry?

Two items for discussion: a good fish fry and a good hike.

We went to the Route 20 Diner recently for that CNY specialty, the Friday night fish fry. I know it’s not a unique regional dish but it certainly is a pretty important one here. Wife L and I debate the merits of each eatery’s fish fry like New Hampshire residents discuss primary candidates.

I have to say the fish fry at the Route 20 Diner did not rank in my top three.  The batter was too dense and not very flavorful. The haddock was flaky and moist, but its wrapper was mediocre. So far this year my favorite fish fry has been from the Huff Brau House in Earlville. There, the batter is crisp and crunchy, and the fish light and not a tad greasy. 

Any good fish fry has to have good side dishes. I don’t like vinegar-based cole slaw so I will always check how it’s prepared before ordering and I’ll opt for a  side salad if it’s an option. Sweet potato fries are a big plus if available and a welcome option to consider along with French fries or baked potato.

Wife L swears by the fish fry she had at Johnnie’s Pier 31 on Oneida Lake, just south of Sylvan Beach. Everything was just right for her and she says the battered fish still has not been beat.

Where do you go for a good fish fry? Leave a comment here with your recommendation for a new destination for this CNY staple.

Chittenango Creek along the Gorge Trail

I had a different destination in mind on Sunday. I am on a hike Madison County kick and decided to walk the Cazenovia Gorge Trail. This trail follows Chittenango Creek for 2.5 miles, offering good views of the rushing water as it heads north toward Oneida Lake.

I accessed the trail at Buyea’s True Value Hardware Store on Route 20 on the eastern edge of the village. Just skirt to the right of the store’s big parking lot and you’ll spot the first blue marker for the trail. It really doesn’t “begin” until Clark Street, where a trail map and information kiosk is located, but this is an easily accessible starting point.

The trail, which is part of the larger Link Trail,  follows an abandoned rail bed, and even with the rain on Sunday was mostly dry. It is a nice stretch of the legs and a great place to bring Fido if your pooch needs some exercise.

Stairs leading from the Gorge Trail to Bingley Road

A pretty view along Bingley Road in the town of Fenner

Life imitating art imitating upstate

I stepped into my own Richard Russo novel today.

Russo, author of outstanding novels such as Nobody’s Fool and Empire Falls, captures upstate New York and its desperation and its character and its endurance as well as anyone.

Mrs. K's Kitchen in Middleburgh

There I was in Mrs. K’s Kitchen in Middleburgh, listening to the waitress who has been working at the restaurant for 19 years talk shop with several regulars sitting around the table closest to the kitchen, and talk compassionately with an elderly patron who seems to be fighting an illness, but who said that she “dabbed some makeup on”  to enjoy lunch out with a friend.

Boxes of paper towels and napkins are jammed atop a cooler in the eating area, and the drop ceiling looks like it’s been there for as long as Russo has been writing, it’s dotted with water stains and discolored by nicotine when smokers joined diners before the state put an end to that ugly combination.

I made the mistake of sitting right below the board that had all the specials listed and, just as importantly, all the pies and desserts. I’m a good looking guy, but I quickly realized it was the writing on the wall and not the “character” lines on my face drawing all the attention.

I had a piece of chocolate cream pie, with whipped cream, that was wonderful. I could have chosen blueberry, cherry, strawberry rhubarb, pumpkin, or apple.  I should have tried the angel’s food cake with strawberries, but I like what I like, and I liked my chocolate cream slice covered with whipped cream.

Municipal Building, circa 1880

That followed the cheeseburger deluxe, which came with fries and cole slaw, all for $6.95. It was a good burger. There was a reuben and a turkey wrap and hot covered roast beef sandwich also offered as specials, all for around $7. 

Middleburgh, like a lot of upstate towns, is hanging in there, but is certainly in need of a boost. Next to Mrs. K’s is M&J’s cafe, which vied for my attention. Across the way was Kelly’s Pub, right next to a magnificent municipal building that proudly states that it dates to 1880. 

Flower pots line Main Street, but for rent signs also dot the streetscape of the village that was incorporated in 1712.

I had taken the two hour ride from the Chenango Valley to the Schoharie Valley to hike Vroman’s Nose, which is just south of the village on Route 30.

Looking south into the Schoharie Valley from Vroman's Nose

What a marvelous morning for a hike. It was sunny, with a scattering of clouds creating occasional shadows that skirted along the valley floor, where huge swaths of green were interrupted by fields of corn and some pumpkin patches.

Looking south into the valley is a sight to behold, with the Schoharie Creek winding its way north (that’s weird, eh?) from the Catskill Mountains to the Mohawk River.

I walked to the first of numerous rock outcroppings in a quick 15 minutes. It’s an easy hike with many gorgeous vistas. I made a loop back to the road by walking along a short section of the Long Path, which runs through the area.

From the top of Vroman’s Nose, looking northwest

I’d recommend this hike to everyone. I was a little early to catch the fall foliage, but in the next couple of weeks it should be prime time.

I remember hiking Vroman’s Nose about 15 years ago with a couple of colleagues from The Times Union and with Daughter B on my back in a baby carrier. Still the same untainted vistas, luckily for us all, and still worth the trip.

Back in the car,  I drove through Cobleskill and ended up on Route 166, which I took north into Cherry Valley. I stopped in at the plaide palette, a terrific shop that sells Irish and Scottish crafts, jewelry, teas, and more.

I found myself something to buy and then headed north to Route 20, and home.