Hiking a section of the North Country Trail right here in CNY

The North Country Trail runs 4,600 miles through seven states, stretching from New York to North Dakota. I walked 2.8 miles of it the other day, adding to the legion of dedicated hikers who have walked what is known as the country’s longest National Scenic Trail.

OK, a measly three miles does not make me an official member of this legion of hikers or even a dedicated hiker. But we all need to start somewhere. I do think it is interesting that this trail, which starts in Crown Point, N.Y., is something we can take advantage of here in CNY.

I accessed the Onondaga Section of the trail in the DeRuyter State Forest, off Fairbanks Road. I actually found  the trailhead this time, after an epic fail I wrote about a couple years back.

Tucker the New Dog and I passed a serene-looking pond at the trail’s start and quickly found ourselves in what the DEC says is reclaimed forest that includes Norway spruce and red pine planted by Civilian Conservation Corp recruits back in the 1930s.

We zigzagged along a ridge, working our way through trees starting to reclaim their cloaks of green and down to Webber Road, which connects with Fairbanks Road. A quiet stroll up Fairbanks, a seasonal road,  led us back to the car. (See the route here. )

A section of the North Country Trail.

It was a perfect day for a walk, temperatures in the low 70s with no humidity and only a few bugs starting to emerge. And, of course, a modicum of exercise needs to be rewarded. I stopped at the Drift In, which is on Route 13 just north of the village of DeRuyter, and sampled a banana shake.  Good, but not great. I still am a Gilligan’s shake guy, at least until I visit Troop’s Scoops on Route 20 later this summer.

The Drift In also serves Texas Red Hots, burgers, chicken tenders, and some fried fish baskets. Solid fare from a classic roadside drive-thru.

I was disappointed to see the shuttered Red and White Cafe,  in the village itself, that went out of business in November 2011. That had been a great renovation of a general store  into a wonderful cafe that anchored a Main Street corner. Sad to be reminded of its closure.

The Drift-In is a classic roadside drive-thru on Route 13 just north of DeRuyter.

All hail Heid’s of Liverpool; at least most of us, anyway

Lunch at Heid’s in Liverpool.

A hot dog is a hot dog is a hot dog, right? Not if you are my father-in-law, or Jim Boeheim, for that matter, both of whom speak very fondly of Heid’s in Liverpool, the classic drive-thru that has been around since 1917 and is known for its Hofmann-brand hot dogs and coneys.

Wife L and I visited the CNY landmark on Saturday for the very first time after we had a brisk walk through the village and along the wonderful walkways of Onondaga Lake Park.

I came away a fan; Wife L was not similarly impressed.

I thoroughly enjoyed my crispy-grilled coney, tucked in a fresh, warm New England-style bun. The special spicy brown mustard that Heid’s sells was the real treat for me; it provided a wonderful kick. The baked beans were the perfect accompaniment, reminding me of many a summer picnic.

Wife L enjoyed her hot dog, but wasn’t buying into the Heid’s hype. She opined that she would have been just as happy grilling some Hofmann’s hot dogs on our backyard grill. But then again, she ordered cheesy fries, so you have to be wary of her opinion. Cheese was not intended for french fries, just as ketchup was not intended for hot dogs or eggs.

You order your food at Heid’s cafeteria style, and walk with your tray past folks waiting to order and into the clean dining room. There also are picnic tables outside waiting for the warm weather.

Several folks had Syracuse University orange on, and I could see quite a few had ordered the special: a frank and a coney, regular fries, and soft drink, for $7.25. You can get Gianelli sausage sandwiches, as well, and what they call a Sea Dog, which is beer-battered cod.

We were very lucky, we beat a big crowd that clogged the eatery’s doorway and snaked outside just as we were getting ready to leave.

We had a nice walk through Liverpool. It was great to see so many parking spaces filled on the village streets, and so many people shopping at Nichols, the independently owned supermarket. We passed some interesting-looking restaurants, including the Limp Lizard Bar and Grill and The Retreat, and out on Old Liverpool Road we passed a couple of diners and several other restaurants that seemed worth a look.

It was great to see a lot of activity on a day that had promised sunshine but delivered mostly overcast skies and a chilly wind and, luckily for me at least, a rewarding visit to a CNY institution.

The impressive Liverpool Community Church.

Gilligan’s chocolate shake a worthy reward for hike in Otselic State Forest

Looking down toward the Otselic River.

I bagged my second chocolate shake of the season from Gilligan’s in Sherburne on Sunday. It was part of my quest to dramatically increase my chocolate shake intake this spring/summer, and it also was a reward for my strenuous hike in the Otselic State Forest earlier in the day.

I had set out on Route 26 in search of the Waterfalls of Pharsalia, which according to the trusty CNY Hiking website, I should have been able to access a mile east of the state road,  on Stage Road. But I drove up and down a couple of times and as much as I implored Tuck the New Dog to keep an eye out, we never did spot the Finger Lakes Trail markers that are supposed to lead to the falls. It could have been operator error, but I looked pretty hard without success.

The snow begins to yield in places.

But Partridge Hill Road was covered despite temperatures Sunday in the 60s.

Undaunted, I drove back north on Route 26 where I had passed a Finger Lakes Trail sign at a fishing access point for the Otselic River. We walked along a dirt track and saw the trail head at the end of a larger dirt road. It was a steep 500-foot climb right off the bat, and we were then skirting along the side of the hill on a fairly rough trail as the river tumbled and churned below.

I was soon  reminded how significant a change in elevation can be. Down at the fishing hole, there was no snow to be seen. As we climbed, however, there were larger and larger patches of snow, and eventually we reached  Partridge Hill Road, which was completely covered.

We walked through a couple of inches of snow and descended slowly through what the DEC says is a mix of red pine, Norway spruce, and native hardwoods.

There was not much color yet, but it was a great day to be outside and to prepare for more serious hikes to come this summer in the Adirondacks. And, of course, it was a legitimate justification for a chocolate shake at Gilligan’s.

A chocolate shake from Gilligan’s.

Sherburne Inn restoration project offers hope amid CNY economic mess

On any given day in CNY there is reason to believe and a reason to despair. A case in point is the formation of a citizens’ preservation group that is fighting to save The Sherburne Inn, the building that dominates the four corners in the Chenango County village of Sherburne.

Apparently a chain operation was ready to demolish the historic structure, which dates back to 1917 and most recently was known at the Bullthistle Inn, and put up a gas station and convenience store. Residents said, whoa. The owner, Jim Webb, gave the preservation group a chance to meet his asking price, which the group did. Closing on the property is expected any day.

Save the Sherburne Inn Restoration Project Inc. (SSIRP) has a vision for the building that includes a restaurant and two bars, overnight accommodations, event space, a gift shop, fitness center, and bakery.

The Sherburne Inn circa 1917.

It’s ambitious, and the business plan is still being finalized. But it’s exactly the kind of determination and effort our region needs to cultivate the past as we look toward the future. These unique buildings won’t ever be built again; they deserve a second and third chance to evoke that invaluable sense of place that makes CNY such an interesting place to live.

I learned of this effort through a postcard I received in the mail the other day. SSIRP has a website, and is seeking financial assistance and volunteers to help with the project. My check is in the mail, and I hope you’ll consider a contribution, too.

Part two of my case in point is a sad reminder of how many CNY residents are forced to move from the area because of the lack of jobs and any hint of economic progress.

I volunteered to be a parade marshal during Utica’s St. Patrick’s Day parade a few weekends ago. My “team captain” Mike has been a volunteer for several years, and is exactly the kind of person we need in this area. Folks who give back, who spend time trying to improve the community. But Mike told me this would be his last year at the parade; he and his wife are leaving to join other CNY expatriates in North Carolina.

The reason? They can’t find meaningful jobs in an area he said was “dying.” He obviously would stay if there was a chance to improve their lives and find new job opportunities. But instead they will join the other upstate New Yorkers forced to move to where the jobs are, forced to leave family and friends, forced to leave communities that need their commitment and volunteer spirit.

The CNY diaspora grows. State government fiddles.

A wonderful waterfall in town of Martinsburg and a no-frills garage that saves the day

The relentless power of nature was in full display at a wonderful park I visited in Lewis County, where a snow and ice-covered waterfall was a thing to behold. Just a few minutes later, a wonder of the manmade variety — a mechanic’s garage — provided a far different, but still interesting, view and perspective.

Friday was a good day to travel to Canton to pick up Daughter B and her Friend S from St. Lawrence University, which is on a weeklong spring break.  I made a quick pit stop at B&L Italian Bakery in Rome for a couple of pusties and a loaf of their fine Italian bread before heading to Whitaker Falls Park in the town of Martinsburg (not to be confused with the Whetstone Gulf State Park just a couple miles away).

The town park offers camping, a picnic pavilion, and a trail to the falls, which are spectacular.  The bedrock is cleaved straight down the middle, allowing the water to pour in from both sides as it works its way down one drop and then another. Tucker the New Dog and I walked along the edge to view the ice sculptures and to track the quickly flowing water as it dipped and dived under the ledges of snow. The water tumbled down  into a gorgeous gorge lined by evergreens dusted with snow.

Looking down the falls in Whitaker Falls Park.

The top of one of the waterfalls.

Tucker the New Dog walks along the water’s edge.

After taking in the views of the Black River Valley up top near the pavilion, we headed back to the car and quickly discovered a flat tire. I can’t remember the last time I changed a tire. And I can’t remember the spare tires getting that small. The doughnut spare worked, though, at least for the five miles it took me to get into the village of  Lowville.

When I do stop for directions, which Wife L will say is rarely, if ever, I don’t stop at gas stations anymore. Usually the kid working the register knows as much about the area as I do, and I’m the guy who is lost. Now, whenever I’m in need of directions or suggestions, I head to a diner or other locally owned eatery.  (It’s true, I’m not just trying to justify this post with a “food” connection).

I asked two guys who were yakking outside Lloyd’s of Lowville diner about where I could get the tire fixed, and one pointed me to the WalMart (bad suggestion) and the other pointed me to a local garage just down the street (good suggestion).

This is a garage like your grandfather might remember a garage. It’s white on the outside with an old, red Chevron sign. I thought if I breathed heavily I might force a wall to collapse. Paint peeled from parts of the ceiling, spare tires and parts were here and there and back over there again.  No fancy waiting room here. I milled around inside the two-stall garage and let Tucker jump from the car just as it started to rise — slowly — on the lift.  Glenn the mechanic, who reminded me of a bigger Wilford Brimley, was moving kind of slowly, too, but with determination.

At the Chevron garage in Lowville.

He had taken my car right away, no big explanation required. He found the hole in the tire, jammed a skinny screwdriver in it, and proceeded to plug it. A customer stopped by to ask if Glenn was free later that afternoon to work on his pickup. Glenn was.

When Glenn was done he ambled over to the well-used register and charged me $10.24. I was flummoxed. I handed him a $20 and thanked him for fixing me up right away.  I wondered how long I would have had to wait over at WallyWorld and how much they would have charged me.

Another customer jangled the bell on the door and came on in just as Glenn was guiding me out.  I was late getting  to St. Lawrence, but I got there on a real-sized tire that was repaired and holding steady.

Thanks, Glenn.

The Evil Empire (a k a Olive Garden) sets sights on Utica area

It appears as if the Evil Empire is expanding in CNY. An Olive Garden restaurant is slated for Commercial Drive in New Hartford, not far from Sangertown Square Mall. It would join a sister operation on Route 5 in DeWitt.

In my introduction to the Unchained Restaurants blog, way back in 2009, I wrote:

We’re focusing on New York, but if you’re road-tripping and want to share some ideas, please go ahead. Just remember, no mentions of Olive Garden or Cracker Barrel.

Well, I’m mentioning Olive Garden now because Mike, who runs the terrific Oliveri’s Pizzeria in Hamilton, talked about it with me the other day while I was there for lunch.

Mike hails from Utica, and is passionate about good — local — food. It’s evident in what he serves at his restaurant, from the pizza and wings to the subs and paninis to the vodka riggies and ravioli. It’s all great.

He supports his fellow local restaurateurs, telling me about places he’ll go — when he has time — to eat and to talk food. Places like Joey’s and Ventura’s, both in Utica. We lamented together the demise of Grimaldi’s and Tony Sparagna’s, the Utica restaurants that had represented local traditions, a homespun take on Italian food that was enjoyed by thousands for decades.

I think about Utica and I think Italian food; recipes brought over from the “old country” and tweaked and stirred so that they still resonate today. I also think about the new ethnic restaurants populating Bleecker Street and other sections of the city. Small restaurants carving out niches of their own.

What will an Olive Garden in the Utica area do to these local restaurants? We ate not too long ago at Michael T’s on Route 5, just down the road from where the Evil Empire is supposed to land. What about Cafe del Buono, right on Commercial Drive? How can those establishments not be hurt by the Italian-food processor?

I hope it won’t have an effect; but the Evil Empire is powerful. And just to be clear, I’m not against good, inexpensive food. I’m not against new tax revenues and new jobs. God knows we need that.

But I am against the numbification of food. The way chains like OG neglect all that is local and impose their corporate tastes in such a uniform way as to erase any hint of distinctiveness or respect for an area’s heritage. There is no connection to place; you can be at an Olive Garden in Ohio or New Jersey (sorry, for you) and you won’t see anything special; unique; diverse.

And that is a shame. And that is my rant.