Finding our way to The Beaver Den

I have a tendency, especially when driving here in mostly rural southern Madison County,  to take the road ahead of me that seems to be going in the general direction I need to be going. “General” can sometimes work out quite well, with some twists and turns that lead to the unfolding of a new way back home or the discovery of  new scenic vistas.

“General” can sometimes work out not so well, and that’s when the groans and dagger eyes from the familial traveling companions can overwhelm the car, and the iPods get plugged in as hope dwindles with each turn, each loop, and each intersection that presents only bad options.

An aerial view of the hamlet of Brookfield. Click for a larger view and to see The Beaver Den diner

I didn’t jump on the GPS bandwagon.  I have a compass in the one car, and I can do pretty well with that. On Sunday, though, wife L and I were traveling in the non-compass Camry.  And we didn’t quite know where we wanted to eat breakfast until we remembered a conversation a few weeks back about The Beaver Den diner in the town of Brookfield.

So that’s where we headed. Because we were already meandering on Route 20, we actually did OK by just dropping south on Beaver Creek Road until we landed in the hamlet of Brookfield, and its one general store, its school, the county fairgrounds, Flick’s Tavern, fire station, and post office. That pretty much covers it. Oh, and The Beaver Den. 

The Beaver Den is just south of Main Street on Academy Road. You can’t miss the big green road sign that says, aptly enough, Diner.

Inside, a large section of one wall is covered with wallpaper that depicts a forest with a couple of deer. Not sure why you need that inside when you could drive another five minutes and see a lot of trees and deer. You see Brookfield has about 13,000 acres of state forest. Some nice hiking and some nice trails for horses are readily available.

But I take it as a good sign when the man manning the grill is eating his own food as he is chatting up a few patrons at the counter.  And the food was really good, and incredibly inexpensive. I had a great cheese omelette with toast and sausage and wife L had eggs, hash, and toast. We both had hot teas, and the bill came to $10.75. I mean, c’mon, that’s inexpensive.

The diner is open for lunch and dinner, too, and we’ve been told that the sirloin steak dinner, which is on special on Friday nights, and the prime rib, offered on Saturdays, are quite good. There is a Friday night fish fry available, too, along with burgers and sandwiches.

Working our way back on the Skaneateles Turnpike was one of those “general” direction moments. We ended up going past the assembly area for the horse trails, which was fine, took some interesting turns, which were generally fine, and eventually ended up on Route 12, which was just dandy. It turns out you can get here from there.

We’ll be heading out to The Beaver Den again, I’m sure, when a nice drive and a good inexpensive meal  are on the menu.

Show your pride at fairgrounds event

I want to pass along information about an interesting event this weekend at the state fairgrounds in Syracuse. It’s the Pride of New York program’s Harvest Festival, which will feature more than 100 vendors selling local foods and products.

For a $20 advance ticket or $25 at the door, you can try products  from the farms, wineries, restaurants, and food manufacturers that will be on hand. 

This means unlimited sampling of wines and beers, as well as food products like sauces and marinades, meats, cheese and ice cream, baked goods, honey and maple products, organic offerings and more.

Each ticket also gets you into one of the cooking demonstrations/seminars.

The festival runs from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday and noon to 5 p.m. Sunday.

You can read more about it here, and then go eat, drink, and buy local!

Eating local and buying local is a win-win

I try to eat at locally owned restaurants and I try to shop at locally owned businesses. I accomplished both things this Saturday. A gold star for me, I suppose.

Wife L and I took advantage of the terrific weekend weather and drove south, first to Bowman Lake State Park, which is west and south of Norwich.

Bowman Lake

It was quite a find for us. A gorgeous lake that has a nice little beach for the summer months. We found a trail that brings you around the lake; a bit mucky at times, but a nice stroll. We were too late for the fall leaves, but the sun threw diamonds on the water, putting us in a warm frame of mind as we fought off the breeze that had just a bit of bite to it.

There is a boathouse, with kayaks, row boats, and paddle boats on standby for summer. The campsites seemed well-kept and varied, and it looked like a great place to hole up for a few days come warmer weather.

After our walk we wound our way back to Norwich and found ourselves, quite happily, at  Nina’s Pizzeria and Restaurant, which sits on the west side of Route 12.

Colleague C had recommended Nina’s  some time ago, and we finally had a chance to try it. We thought it was great. Good Italian food and good prices. We had a baked ziti and a rigatoni with meatballs. We both thought the sauce was terrific, which is huge when you’re talking Italian. The portions were huge, and we had plenty to bring back to Daughter B for her dinner.

A nice crisp salad had started things off nicely, and warm bread was a solid accompaniment. Our entrees were around  $8. Quite a bargain considering the quality and quantity. 

I found a couple of bargains across the street, too, at McLaughlin’s Department Store. This shop has been in Norwich since 1975 and it is still in the McLaughlin family.

I’m a horrible shopper. I’d almost rather be at the dentist. I hem and I haw, and I tug at clothes and ponder many deep thoughts before making a purchase. I admit it’s painful to watch and painful to experience. That’s why I make shopping excursions as often as the swallows return to Capistrano.

But McLaughlins came through for me, as a snazzy winter coat is in the closet waiting for the onset of another CNY winter, and a Columbia long sleeve shirt is poised in the closet, waiting for the first cross-country ski trip.

I had felt compelled to send a cell phone photo of the coat to Daughter B before making the decision to buy, to get an objective appraisal.  A texted thumbs up sealed the deal.

Gold stars all around.

Refueling after excercising your brain

I go to museums to discover something new. I go to restaurants to eat. When I can do both things on the same day, it can be a pretty good day. Such was the case on a recent Saturday when I took in the outstanding exhibition Turner to Cezanne at the Everson Museum in Syracuse.

This exhibition brings pieces from the collection of a pair of sisters from Wales, the Davies. Only five cities in the nation will be showcasing these pieces, and the Everson is one of the five.

Impressionist pieces are at the core of the exhibition, including several by Monet. I was mesmerized by Charing Cross Bridge, one of the many studies he did of London. Monet loved the London fog and mist and the diffused light.

Pierre-Auguste Renoir's La Parisienne, 1874. Photo courtesy of Everson Museum.

It was terrific to stand in front of Renoir’s life-size canvas, La Parisienne, and take in the bold shimmering blues of the dress worn by this “modern” woman of Paris. You could easily imagine the swish and shush of her dress as she entered a ballroom.

My discovery, though, was of a painting by the sole woman artist in the exhibition, Berthe  Morisot. I was not familiar with her work, and I left the exhibition thinking of her painting — At Bougival — more than any other.

The painting is of a mother and child enjoying the outdoors, and they are almost subsumed by the vigorous greens of the grass portrayed through thick swirls of color. The bucolic scene actually feels energetic because of the vigorous brush strokes.

Morisot studied under Corot and was influenced by Manet, who would one day become her brother-in-law. She would become the only woman painter in the group that would become known as the Impressionists.

It was great to learn more about her at the exhibition, where you can use your cell phone and punch in a code to learn about several of the paintings.

If you haven’t been yet, go to the Everson. The show runs until Jan. 3.

Not wanting to exercise only one half of my brain, after the Everson I wandered down to Shifty’s, a neighborhood bar on Burnet Avenue, to watch some of the Syracuse University football game. The bar prides itself in offering live music, a good beer selection, and good wings.  I had discovered it during a St. Patrick’s Day jaunt with some friends last year. We had a great time, and I thought a return visit was in order.

On this Saturday, the Orange would actually go on to victory, a rare occurrence, by beating Akron.  I walked away a winner by ordering some wings from the kitchen. 

I don’t eat chicken wings as much as I used to, but when they are done right, which means hot but not inferno-like, they can be fun to eat. Shifty’s wings were great: meaty, crisp, and packing some punch.  I enjoyed a dozen for $6.50, and matched with a couple drafts, I left the ‘Cuse a happy man.

You can’t beat a good steak

A good steakhouse can be a reassuring place. Especially if it’s a place where you know you’ll get a good meal at a good price.

We found such a place a couple Friday nights ago, in Norwich right on Route 12. It’s called Gus’ Steakhouse and Sports Lounge, and it was a treat.

I’m not sure where the “sports lounge” comes into play. There is a bar and there are TVs. But this is really about the restaurant and the steaks, chops, ribs and chicken that are available.

The main dining room is nicely appointed, with wood floors and tasteful fall decorations adding to the warmth pushing forth from the gas fireplace.

We mostly chose from the specials. I had a 12 oz steak and Buffalo shrimp, a winning combination. My accompanying sweet potatoes were small, and not what I was expecting, but I could live with that considering the flavorful, tender steak and spicy small shrimp I was enjoying.

Wife L might have had the winning entree, though. She had what is called Gus’ double cut 24 oz. steak, which is offered for a very reasonable $17.99. Each steak comes plain or with a soy-based marinade. She had the marinade, and the steak was a wonderful grilled selection with terrific flavor.

Father-in-law D had a nice N.Y. strip covered in bleu cheese and Mother-in-law J had coconut shrimp. Daughter B went with a special, prime rib and a small order of baby back ribs. Too much for her, she focused on the prime rib and we brought the ribs home. It was a nice combo.

We all agreed that the salads that came with the meal were some of the best we’ve had in some time. You have to like a restaurant that pays attention to everything, and Gus’ seems to fit that bill.

It’s just south of the busy little downtown that is Norwich, but before the Wally World and the Lowe’s.

Give it a try next time you’re on Route 12. It’s worth the stop.

Meandering in Manlius

I have been on a reconnaissance mission of a sort. Nothing to confirm yet, but at least one opportunity has been located and listed for a future excursion.

I speak of some recent meanderings in Manlius. Daughter B is taking tennis lessons at 7:30 p.m. in the village, and yours truly is killing an hour and a half at various spots around town.  As much as I enjoy watching my daughter play, my neck can take only so much back and forth, back and forth, back and forth. 

You get the idea.

So I spent part of one evening at the Ugly Duckling, a bar/restaurant on East Seneca Street, just past where Route 92 curls from the village.  A Red Sox haven, for sure, which is fun to see in what is normally Yankee country.

Another night I spent in Shoppingtown Mall, which has to be one of the more depressing malls in the country.  I mean you walk through the Sears and into this wing of nothingness before you get to any kind of shops at all.  I’d almost rather be in Sangertown Square Mall in New Hartford.

A third 90-minute bloc involved a trip to Wegman’s. Can’t go wrong there, partner. I bought things I didn’t need and felt good about the price I paid for them, and I ogled muffins, bagels, donuts and a wonderful variety of breads in the baked goods section. 

Another evening, and I suppose this is the point considering the name of this blog, was spent at Hullar’s Restaurant in Fayeteville. I really liked the feel of this place, though I didn’t eat there because it was late. Instead I landed at the bar, waiting for my Jets to take on the Dolphins on Monday Night Football.

But Hullar’s is intriguing to me, and merits a return visit to sit down and eat. Three guys next to me at the bar were enjoying what from all muffled reports were good meals. And I like any place that offers some local history on the take-away menu.

The restaurant says it’s one of the oldest restaurants in town. It  dates back to 1818, when the area was called “Manlius Four Corners.”

I’ve done my due diligence, and I now have a place to try for lunch or dinner when I’m traveling up that way again. I promise to provide a full report, and hopefully all my scouting will have been worthwhile.

Readers chime in with tips of their own

Thinking of heading north to catch some fall color? Well, one of our reader emails might provide a destination, though time is short because this unchained restaurant shuts down for the season on Sunday.

Read on for details and some other restaurant suggestions:

From Scott and Kathy:
On Route 3 coming out of the city of Plattsburgh (not too far from the city line, maybe 3 to 5 miles), there’s a small house on a “Y” intersection; the land around it is mostly paved (except for the four picnic tables in the shade of a tree) and when you pull up you notice there’s a menu on the side of the building. Then the waitress comes out to get your order and when she returns she hangs it on your open window on a tray. The only thing missing was the roller skates.

The place is Ronnie’s Michigan Stand …. and all the food I’ve tried there has been great. By the way, a ‘Michigan‘ is a sauce they cover the hot dogs in and they’ll even add extra onions on if you want. Ronnie’s closes for the season on Oct. 11, but come spring I will return north to follow my money to SUNY Plattsburgh (my son goes there) I’ll be sure to travel Route 3 and stop in for some great unchained food. Nice blog, happy eating.

(Sounds like a classic roadside eatery, thanks for the great tip.)

From Kurt P:
I read a few of your posts and think you might enjoy the Chief Schenevus restaurant in Schenevus, just off I-88. The tabletops are worth the trip all by themselves, but the food is pretty good, too. Call ahead to be sure they’re open.

(Tabletops? … hmmm)
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From Mike A:
I don’t know if anyone has mentioned it yet, I’ll hope to be the first , but one of my favorites is Origlio’s Wagon Wheel restaurant. It is located across from the old Alfred’s shopping center at 257 Wilson St. in Oneida.They make the well known Joe’s Spaghetti Sauce that has been around I think since the 40’s . This is a no-frills family place with food made to order for lunch and dinner with Italian specialties , sandwiches , pizza , steaks , and more .

Very reasonable , many specials are only 9.95 !  See what kind of feedback you get when you mention it . Better yet, go see for yourself !

I am a fan of unchained restaurants and your blog.

(Thanks, Mike. I haven’t been yet but it’s now on the radar)

From Joyce S:
I recently ate lunch at The Olde Irish Inn (it used to be the Cato Hotel) and I highly recommend it. It’s on Main St. (Route 370) in Cato and is under new management. They have made the place very accessible and the food is delicious. It is cozy and has lots of Irish feel to it. I had fish with sweet potato fries. mmmmm!

They do not have their liquor license yet and when they do, they’re going to have an open house. I was told they’ll even have a bagpiper as entertainment that day. I hope they advertise it in the Post Standard as I live in the Syracuse area now.

I used to teach at Cato-Meridian so meeting friends for lunch there on a Thursday was almost like going home and The Olde Irish Inn did feel like home. I have to hand it to the new owners. They have worked hard to make the place special.

(Joyce: A place for Irish food and a warm atmosphere sounds just right. Thanks for writing.)

Beer is food, right?

Beer is food, right?

We like beer, and we like regional food. So all in all it’s a winning combination this Sunday (Oct.11) at the Colgate Inn, which is hosting its first Brew Review from 1 p.m. to 6 p.m. (Remember, Monday is a holiday for some.)

Regional beers will be served with different foods from around New York state. 

Breweries represented include Middle Ages Brewery, Ithaca Brewery, Brooklyn Brewery, Brewery Ommegang, Saranac, Lake Placid Brewery, Cooperstown Brewery, and more.

Tickets are $30 in advance and $35 at the door. Guests must be 21 years or older with valid ID. 

There will also be a brew tent celebration from 5 p.m. to 8pm, featuring live music from the Blueprints, a barbecue with  state foods, sale of craft brews,  and a screening of the movie “Beer Wars”.

You can contact the Colgate Inn at 824. 2300.

Life imitating art imitating upstate

I stepped into my own Richard Russo novel today.

Russo, author of outstanding novels such as Nobody’s Fool and Empire Falls, captures upstate New York and its desperation and its character and its endurance as well as anyone.

Mrs. K's Kitchen in Middleburgh

There I was in Mrs. K’s Kitchen in Middleburgh, listening to the waitress who has been working at the restaurant for 19 years talk shop with several regulars sitting around the table closest to the kitchen, and talk compassionately with an elderly patron who seems to be fighting an illness, but who said that she “dabbed some makeup on”  to enjoy lunch out with a friend.

Boxes of paper towels and napkins are jammed atop a cooler in the eating area, and the drop ceiling looks like it’s been there for as long as Russo has been writing, it’s dotted with water stains and discolored by nicotine when smokers joined diners before the state put an end to that ugly combination.

I made the mistake of sitting right below the board that had all the specials listed and, just as importantly, all the pies and desserts. I’m a good looking guy, but I quickly realized it was the writing on the wall and not the “character” lines on my face drawing all the attention.

I had a piece of chocolate cream pie, with whipped cream, that was wonderful. I could have chosen blueberry, cherry, strawberry rhubarb, pumpkin, or apple.  I should have tried the angel’s food cake with strawberries, but I like what I like, and I liked my chocolate cream slice covered with whipped cream.

Municipal Building, circa 1880

That followed the cheeseburger deluxe, which came with fries and cole slaw, all for $6.95. It was a good burger. There was a reuben and a turkey wrap and hot covered roast beef sandwich also offered as specials, all for around $7. 

Middleburgh, like a lot of upstate towns, is hanging in there, but is certainly in need of a boost. Next to Mrs. K’s is M&J’s cafe, which vied for my attention. Across the way was Kelly’s Pub, right next to a magnificent municipal building that proudly states that it dates to 1880. 

Flower pots line Main Street, but for rent signs also dot the streetscape of the village that was incorporated in 1712.

I had taken the two hour ride from the Chenango Valley to the Schoharie Valley to hike Vroman’s Nose, which is just south of the village on Route 30.

Looking south into the Schoharie Valley from Vroman's Nose

What a marvelous morning for a hike. It was sunny, with a scattering of clouds creating occasional shadows that skirted along the valley floor, where huge swaths of green were interrupted by fields of corn and some pumpkin patches.

Looking south into the valley is a sight to behold, with the Schoharie Creek winding its way north (that’s weird, eh?) from the Catskill Mountains to the Mohawk River.

I walked to the first of numerous rock outcroppings in a quick 15 minutes. It’s an easy hike with many gorgeous vistas. I made a loop back to the road by walking along a short section of the Long Path, which runs through the area.

From the top of Vroman’s Nose, looking northwest

I’d recommend this hike to everyone. I was a little early to catch the fall foliage, but in the next couple of weeks it should be prime time.

I remember hiking Vroman’s Nose about 15 years ago with a couple of colleagues from The Times Union and with Daughter B on my back in a baby carrier. Still the same untainted vistas, luckily for us all, and still worth the trip.

Back in the car,  I drove through Cobleskill and ended up on Route 166, which I took north into Cherry Valley. I stopped in at the plaide palette, a terrific shop that sells Irish and Scottish crafts, jewelry, teas, and more.

I found myself something to buy and then headed north to Route 20, and home.

Hot cider donuts on a crisp fall day

Donuts, Daughter B declared today, are the most important food.

Clinton Cider Mill

This declaration came after she fitted a cinnamon sugar donut from the Clinton Cider Mill in her mouth while I was driving her to school.

I think she might be onto something.

The donuts made at the cider mill are sensational. We usually buy eight and each passenger usually consumes two before we get home to Hamilton. They are made from the cider that is produced on-site, which we also enjoy.

If you time it right, you can catch the owners and staff members working the cider press located in the shop. A pretty interesting process to witness.

You also can buy chicken pot pies, cheeses, jams, honey, and pies. But make sure you go for the donuts.

There is not a better autumn tradition than a car ride on a crisp sunny day to the Clinton Cider Mill. Just make sure you buy enough for when you actually get home.

Fall in CNY is spectacular. We have wonderful foliage right here in the Chenango Valley, and the Adirondacks and Finger Lakes are just short drives away. 

I’m planning a short trip to the east, to Middleburgh, and an easy hike up Vroman’s Nose. That is one of my favorite all-time hikes, with views from the top that take in the entire Schoharie Valley.

And, if my luck holds, the cafe I visited in Middleburgh about 15 years ago is still there and still serving up wonderful homemade pie. 

Donuts and pie. Must be fall.